The Basic Home Brewing Process

Step 4: Fermentation (Primary and Secondary Fermentation)

Once you have finished boiling your home brew, cooled it down, and transferred the warm wort to the fermenter, it is time to add the yeast and begin the primary fermentation process. Be sure that you have a fermenter that will give some space above the wort in order to accommodate any foaming that may take place during fermentation. If there is not enough space, such as about a gallons worth, then you risk foam pushing its way up into your airlock and out the fermenter. We have seen it happen and man does it get sticky.
Now that the wort is about 85 degrees Fahrenheit and in the fermenter, it is time to “pitch” (or add) the yeast to the wort. Once you have added all the yeast to the fermenter, simply seal the fermenter and attaché the airlock. Be sure to fill the airlock about halfway with sanitized water. Also, you can add a little mixture of sanitizer liquid and water in there to be sure it is clean. Some people even pour vodka in there since the alcohol has the ability to help keep the home brew sanitized during the brewing process.
Soon after adding the yeast, you may begin to see the foaming beginning. The whole primary fermentation process will usually take about 5-7 days in 60-75 degree temperatures for ales and about 45-60 degrees Fahrenheit for lagers which can take upwards to 3 weeks or so to complete. The lagering process, as it is done in colder temperatures, will actually prevent many of the “floral” or “fruity” aromas more common with ales out of the finished beers due to the home brew fermentation process in cold temperatures in the refrigerator or personal underground cave.
After your home brewed beer has finished fermenting and the foam has settled, you should pull a sample out in order to record the final gravity of the beer. Once this has been recorded, you can then place your beer into another fermenter using a siphon hose to begin secondary fermentation where most of the clearing will take place. Be sure not to splash the beer around this time around. Also be sure not to siphon the sediment at the bottom of the old fermenter in order to prevent off flavors from too much yeast exposure as well as to promote good clarity in your homebrew.
Once in secondary fermentation, a good two weeks for clearing should be good. However, it is NOW beer so go ahead and bottle some if you would like, it just may be a bit hazy still until you separate it from the remaining sediment (or trub) that will settle during secondary fermentation.

NEXT: Bottling/Racking

The Basic Homebrewing Procedure :

Step 1: Cleaning and Sanitizing Home Brewing Equipment
Step 2: Mashing
Step 3: Brewing (Boiling and Adding Hops)
Step 4: Fermentation (Primary and Secondary Fermentation)
Step 5: Bottling/Racking